Martin and I spent a couple of days in Vancouver last week, catching up on our foodie fix and thoroughly enjoying a concert – we got to see Sting and Paul Simon on stage together. (Remember, I did say I like to make the most of life in general!) I thought I would share some of our highlights.
We stopped at IKEA on the way into town – a great stop for any foodie who wants to be funky without breaking the bank. Serving dishes and linens for entertaining, nifty Swedish condiments like lingonberry jam to jazz up Sunday dinner, and candles of all shapes and sizes are there for the taking. Oh, and if you have kids, they have hot dogs for less than $1 and a play room. So now you have no excuse 🙂
Staying downtown was important if we were to cover as much ground as possible in a short visit. We found a boutique hotel that was central, but without parking with in Vancouver is a real hassle so I would recommend one of the larger places that offers on-site parking if you drive to Vancouver.
I used Trip Advisor to give us some suggestions as to funky places. Checking the reviews and filtering the complaints with a grain of salt is a good way to give us a short list, I find. Then we discuss what we feel like and we head out! The first night we chose a place called Twisted Fork Bistro, and although the usually great Trip Advisor Guide app gave us totally wrong directions we managed to find it before the rain got too heavy (it’s on Granville Street, NOT on Robson as the app says, if you’re looking).
My feet hurt by the time we arrived, but it turned out to be worth the effort. If you like mussels, you have to visit this cozy little long bar. If you want small servings or sharing plates, it’s a fantastic choice. If you like wine, they offer BC wines on their list, and they have a fun choice called “just a glass” for a great price. The serving staff will tell you about what is featured that night, and even if you go for a name choice the prices are competitive and the choices excellent. We also shared a “roo loin” – yes, I will eat adventurous food. It was delicious with the balsamic glaze, sauteed green onions and watermelon cubes. The watermelon was also inspired with the Bacon Brussel Sprouts we ordered! Mussels are served with frites piled over top, in a cream sauce. It was like a continental French poutine – decadent for sure.
The good thing about appetizer portions is that it tends to leave you more room for dessert. The chef here is a pastry chef so don’t miss out if you can help out. We had the chocolate terrine, but all the choices sounded delectable.
The next morning we headed for Granville Island Market, the place we used to meet for breakfast when we were first dating. Saturday morning donuts, fresh fruit and coffee is a family tradition for us. Lee’s Donuts and JJ Bean Coffee didn’t disappoint. Donuts just glazed and still warm, and some of the finest roasted beans I have ever tasted made me feel like I could take on the world!
Shopping for dinner is the other fun activity at the market, and there are many offerings for every taste. We like Seigel’s Bagels (Martin is from Montreal; need I say more?), and Benton Brothers Fine Cheese (try the Abondance from France – it’s divine! They will help with wine pairings too, if you like). Choose your veggies ruthlessly, and ask the experts to help you with seafood and meat – they love the compliment and you won’t regret it. If you just want pâté or cured meats, check out Oyama Sausage Co. – they have it all. And if you want fresh pasta, Duso’s is my go-to place – their butternut squash ravioli is divine 🙂
An aside here: You have to train if you’re going to embark on this kind of foodie day. A lot of walking helps, but you want to psyche yourselves for the notion of basically eating non-stop all day. Tasting is the key – don’t look to have large portions, as variety is the objective here. You will be full at the end of the day, for sure, but a good workout for the next few days afterwards will get you back in balance. It’s worth it, trust me.
From the market we went to see a friend who has a wonderful business on South Cambie. Tracy Kadanoff has been a pastry chef for years and she developed an allergy to gluten. So what did she do? She made lemonade – she opened a bakery where she could still do her beautiful work, Lemonade Gluten Free Bakery.
Not only does she do breads and cookies, she does fine cakes and pastries, all from gluten free recipes. You certainly won’t feel like you’re missing anything here! We got goodies for friends who eat gluten free, and we treated ourselves to a salted caramel chocolate tart that we had later that evening. Then across the street I even managed to find treats to take home for “the troops” (our dogs) at Three Dog Bakery.
Time for lunch! I wanted a stroll at English Bay, especially since it wasn’t raining on a February day. So we decided to eat the food of the ‘hood, and go Mediterranean. I know it sounds silly, but we really did go to the Falafel King, on Denman Street. I have to tell you, my first ever restaurant job was in a Lebanese place kind of like this in Calgary, and this place was just as authentic and equally as tasty. If you don’t believe me, check out the link and see the reviews!
We sat on a park bench at English Bay and nibbled our lunch – my falafel was divine, and Martin’s shawarma was delicious. I thought of my Dad, whose ashes were strewn over the waves there years ago, and wouldn’t you know, the sun came out and warmed us up.
We enjoyed the heat, and the view, and we relaxed for a while. Then we thought. perhaps we should see about a little something sweet 🙂 So off we went down Denman Street. We window shopped and wandered, and eventually found ourselves at an old haunt, True Confections. Martin used to run the kitchen here, so he knew just the thing. A pie of Mud Cake was just what we needed. It’s dense, with an equally dense chocolate fudge icing. We shared a piece as we walked back to the car. If you’re going, I would also recommend the Devil’s Food Cake with marshmallow icing, or the Lemon Heaven Cake with its lemon mousse and sponge cake layers covered in white chocolate glaze.
Time to rest up, as the day was not over yet! We headed back to the hotel to change shoes (lots of walking – it helps work off the calories!). After a couple of hours, we headed out for dinner. We wanted to go to Chambar, but they were full. I should have known, as this is a very hip and popular spot. But this was an evening more for something spontaneous, so we wandered down the road. Gastown is full of little eateries, so we weren’t worried.
We found the Revel Room, not full and yet bustling with an energy that we liked. The retro light fixtures and old concert posters gave a cozy feel to the place, and we liked the menu from the first glance. Success! I thoroughly enjoyed the New Orleans Fix, a house special made with bourbon, citrus juices and homemade pineapple syrup. Martin had one of their craft beers and we shared their Chili Shrimp and their Polenta Strips. They were the perfect snacks before our concert.
Being “of an age” we have amassed a number of memories and many of them are wrapped in music. A chance to see two legends together, intertwining their classics by sharing voices and bands was a truly magical evening. I was a huge Sting fan as a young adult, and Martin’s first concert was the Police. My parents played Simon & Garfunkel all through my childhood and Martin named his dogs after Paul (a Doberman) Simon (a German Shorthaired Pointer). We didn’t get up and dance, but I swear I worked off a few hundred calories in my seat!
We finished the evening off by sharing the tart from Lemonade Bakery back in the hotel room with a cup of tea… the perfect end to the perfect day.
Our trip ended on a high note, with a family breakfast at a funky diner called The Red Wagon. Martin’s daughter Chloae joined us for good old-fashioned hearty morning fare, along with some of the best diner java I’ve had since eating in Harlem. It might sound weird, but pulled pork pancakes with Jack Daniels-spiked syrup are really good, as is Brisket & Eggs. I went a bit more traditional with Eggs Benny, but they did have pulled pork instead of ham. It was a sublime meal. We all took pictures of each other’s food, and hummed as we ate 🙂
I know I have rambled, but I wanted to share every delectable moment. I hope you have the stamina to enjoy at least a few of these moments on your next visit to Vancouver; if not, perhaps this article will inspire you to start training.
If you have any foodie trips or moments you’d like to share, please do. I’m always looking for new horizons!
I’m on the road, working. It’s nice to have the chance to experience different places and sample the local gourmand fare, but dining out alone has its drawbacks. Lack of conversation is one of them, which is why I am posting this “live”, as it happens. Beats staring out the window all night 🙂
There is a little alley in Nelson, BC called Hall street that houses not one but two funky little wine bar/ bistro type restaurants. It was tough to decide as both Bibo and All Seasons Cafe looked enticing – both even have charming patios nestled into the hill with lovely twinkle lights – but a peek at the All Seasons menu posted outside revealed duck on the menu a few ways and that drew me in. The cozy room with funky art and assorted antique chairs matched to equally eclectic wood tables made me stay. I sat into an old chair with a pre-formed leather seat (very comfy) and decided it was going to be a good night.
Being a food geek I can’t just have one dish on a night out so I sampled the Scallop Gyoza to start with my glass of Quails’ Gate Chardonnay. Nice to see it was Ocean Wise seafood, as I do like the feeling of supporting sustainability. I toasted my day’s work and settled in to enjoy.
The scallops were chopped fine as a filling so there was less texture than I expected but the taste was pleasant, with a bit of spice – was that from the jicama and carrot slaw? The menu did say it was spicy. The Dungeness and lemon aioli was delightful as well. I couldn’t eat all 5 or I won’t have room for the duck, though. I hope the chef won’t be insulted…
OMG! (I would never write that on my computer but on my phone it seems okay as a sentiment). I hope my wonderful husband forgives me for having this meal without him – duck is his favourite thing and cherry smoked, it’s out of this world! The truffle scented beets and fingerling potatoes aren’t too shabby either. Even the radish sprouts piled on top are inspired. And if I do say so myself, the pairing with the Chardonnay is divine. Thanks to Mr Grant Stanley (the winemaker for this vintage – no longer there, as a side note) for such a beautiful example of the varietal in the Burgundy style!
Another limitation of dining alone is that you lose the opportunity to share things. As much as I would have loved to have dessert, I now have no room. It’s a good thing I didn’t have more than a nibble of the focaccia the server kindly brought “for dunking in the sauce” . It was nicely charred on the grill but my deft work with the cutlery and potatoes enabled me to consume almost all of the sauce anyway. I’m not sure my Lab, Ella, could have licked the plate cleaner, quite frankly 🙂
I should point out that I raise my glass to the Chef at All Seasons not only for great food but also for great judgement on proportions of sauce to the dish. In both the appy and main course the Chef offered up enough sauce to enjoy a taste with every bite, allowing for the chance that I might actually eat the whole dish. Kudos! I am not one of those people who likes 3 dots of sauce on my plate – that might look artful but it doesn’t give me a real chance to taste the flavours. It makes me happy when I can enjoy the same flavours throughout the dish.
I’m satiated. I’m delighted. As a customer you have exceeded my expectations, All Seasons Cafe. I shall record my kudos on Trip Advisor as well, as after all that is where I found you (and your compatriot down the road). It’s nice to know when others enjoy an experience but it’s even nicer to come to my own decision. Maybe I’ll have a chance to bring my husband back here sometime – hopefully the duck will still be on the menu, and if I play my cards right I’ll even get to share a dessert 🙂